Ballater

October 18, 2012

It’s been another interesting day in Scotland!  But first, here’s what happened last evening at the Mashtun bar:

Yup, bc paid me back for all those times I left him bored while I gazed at fabric.  Here he is with the 48 page book describing all the whiskeys he could choose from.  He decided on a Dailuaine 16 year and a Speyside Glenlivet.

We left Aberlour around 9am and headed to the post office to post the key bc accidently took from the Linnmhor House.  It was raining and cold so I stayed in the car.  I thought I’d have to go in and get bc as he was gone about 15 minutes.  When he came back he explained that he was the only customer and the postmistress gave him a detailed itinerary of every place she has traveled.  Luckily some other ladies came in to visit with her and bc was off the hook. 

We drove to the Walker’s Shortbread gift shop, but didn’t go in.  We could eat more, but why? 

Then we went to the Speyside Cooperage in Craigellachie.  This was very interesting.  We watched a 15 minute video on all the special woods, sizes and techniques that go into making barrels.  Then we went upstairs to watch the Coopers make and repair the various barrels.  Here’s some advice.  If a Cooper asks you to arm wrestle, don’t.  A Cooper is hired when he is 16 and works as an apprentice until 20.  Each Cooper is paid for the number of barrels he makes or repairs.  These guys work very fast and hard. 

Then it was time for our 11am appointment at The Macallan.  Frankie took 5 of us on tour for an hour.  As you know, we’ve been through a few distilleries on tours.  This tour taught us more than we had expected.  Macallan buys oak trees from the US, ship the logs to Spain, where the Spaniards make sherry casks for sherry.  When the Sherry is removed from the casks, the Spaniards ship the empty casks to The Macallan in Scotland.   The Macallan owns these casks and has an agreement with the Spanish company to make these sherry casks for them. 

Bc was happy to help me drink my 2 drams of scotch after our tour.  Whatta guy!  They gave us a 12 year old and the golden, which is an unaged scotch whiskey bottled for its color.  It’s only available in the UK.  Bc still likes the 12 year old best.  P.s.  did we tell you the distiller at The Macallan is named “Bob”, really he is!

We then drove through Maggieknockater, (!!), and Mulben to get to the Strathisla distillery.  This is the home of Chivas Regal.  We didn’t go on a tour, but did visit the grounds.  It’s a really pretty place. 

The afternoon was still gray and cloudy but only lightly sprinkling in some places.  We drove through Aberdeenshire, Rhynie, and Lumsden to Kildrummy.  We stopped at the Kildrummy Castle and gardens but it was just too wet to go traipsing around.  That was some big castle at some point in time!

Then on through Glendkindie, Towie, Logie Coldstone, Tullich into Ballater.  We saw such diverse scenery today.  Forests and wheat fields.  It’s so pretty. The fall colors get better every day.

We are staying at the Osborne House in Ballater.  This is a lovely home.  Heather is the owner and she talks quiet slowly and tells us lots of interesting things. 

We plan to go to dinner at a hotel just down the street.  Driving and parking in the city is such a hassle. 

We hope you are all doing well.  Love, bc and gc 

Aberlour

October 17, 2012

Dreary and cold.  That’s the weather for today. But no rain! 

After another wonderful breakfast at Linnmhor we set off for Drumnachit.  We went back through Beauly waving hello to the Campbell Tartan shop ladies.  Our destination was the Urquhart Castle. 

We found the Castle with no problem.  The Urquhart Castle sits alongside the Loch Ness.  We bundled up as it is 4 degrees centigrade.  We walked all over the castle remains.  It was built in the 1300s and many people “owned” it over the centuries.  What we’ve gathered with all these castles is that someone owns them; someone else decides they want it, and they take it, and then they fight over the castle for a hundred years or so, then finally the last someone blows the place up so the Jacobites or the English won’t get it.  And now Scotland owns them all and charges 5 pounds per person to see it and there you go!  Capitalism wins!

Here are some pictures of the castle:

Now, we think we have big news on the BBOY front.  While bc was taking pictures of the Loch Ness, he captured what we believe to be the Loch Ness Monster, (Nessie).   And if you look very closely, isn’t that a piece of yarn attached to Nessie’s tail?  Look again! 

Well, though we are fairly certain the BBOY may be attached to the Loch Ness Monster, we cannot be 100% sure.  So, we vow to continue on!  We will not let you down!!

Once we left the castle we drove to Inverness.  It’s a big city and a good place to drive through.  We headed to Elgin.  We took a side trip to Fort George.  It’s a working fort; we could hear gunfire in the background.  We would have liked to pay our 5 pounds and seen it, but it was very cold, on the water and we said nah….

After we left Elgin we drove through Fogwat, Rothes and dingdingding…. I win the gold star; make that a double gold star, for seeing the signs to The Macallan.  Now, anyone who knows bc knows he is The Macallan’s biggest customer.  As we drove up to the distillery I swear a saw a tear in his eye.  BC here – “When we stepped out of the car in the wee parking lot, I could swear the smell gave me a recall of me Mum’s love…….”  The good news and bad news is that we missed the last 2pm tour, so we booked a place for tomorrow’s 11am tour.  Since we each get 2 tastes and I don’t drink scotch, bc will have to secretly tell me which 2 to choose.  I had thought about buying him one of those little airplane bottles of 1948 Macallan, but at 500 pounds I had to disappoint bc.  But I’m saved as the lady who works there says it is very peaty as during the war years they burned more peat than coal to dry the barley.  Whew, saved! 

We found our way to Aberlour and the Mashtun Inn.  We are sitting in the bar having a drink, eating peanuts.  We will be staying above the bar in the Glenfarclas room.  Horrors!  We ran out of clean underwear, (this is what happens when you just dig through the big suitcase yanking things out as needed).  However, the bar lady asked the lady in back and she’ll wash our underwear for us!  Cool!

BC went to the post office to mail back the key we absconded with from Linnmhor House only to find out that on Wednesdays, and that’s today, they close at noon.  So off to the post office after breakfast tomorrow.

There is only 2g internet here so we’ll have to wait to post this sometime down the road. 

Love to everyone, we miss you, bc and gc  

Black Isle

October 16, 2012

After another wonderful meal, fresh baked oatmeal bread, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, fresh fruit, white pudding on French toast and bacon, we headed out for the Black Isle. 

There was a hard frost last night.  It was .5 centigrade when we got to our frosty car.  We drove through Tore, Roskill, Avoch to Fortrose.  We pulled over to see the Fort Rose Cathedral.  It was built in the early 1200s and was added onto in the 1400s.  This is what is left.  This area appears to belong to the chieftain MacKenzie.  There were a lot of Mackenzies buried at this Cathedral. 

We pulled off to see Chanonry Point.  The road to get to the point is through the middle of a golf course.  There is one hole where the golfer must make sure no cars are coming before teeing off. 

While driving to the Crommarty Ferry we were listening to the BBC radio.  Evidently this is the 50th anniversary of the Cuban Missile crisis.  The radio played the original broadcasts explaining to people in hiding what to do with any dead bodies.  Yikes! 

We got to Crommarty to find that the ferry is closed for the winter.  Oh well.

We drove around through Jemimaville taking a side trip to Newhall Point which is on Udale Bay.  Across the Bay is Invergorden a large oil platform repair site.  Also, cruise ships now come in there.  Did you know that many birds come to Udale Bay during the winter because it’s warmer than Iceland, Greenland and the Artic?  Warm is relative!

We took the Conan Bridge over the Cromarty Firth.  We drive through Alness, Kildary, Tain stopping at the Glenmorangie Distillery.  We watched the movie about the distillery, but didn’t go on the tour.  

We stopped at a view point overlooking Dornach Firth.  Beautiful!

We were getting hungry and decided to head over to Beauly to see if there was a place to eat.  We drove through Ardross, Stittenham, Dingwall, crossing over the weak bridge (!!) on through Mary Bank, Ross & Cromaty to Beauly.  We had lunch at “The Comm” pub.  While at the pub I took this picture for Jeff Carroll and Jeff Kaminski.

Then we walked over to the Campbell’s Tartan store.  This is place is a piece of nostalgia.  Two sisters run the store and they are dressed to the nines in beautiful tartan skirts.  You can buy very nice tartan plaid fabric, jackets, pants, skirts, etc.  These articles of clothing will last you a lifetime.  Before we left Beauly we walked through the remains of the Beauly Priory.  Again, it was built in the 1300s with many Mackenzies buried there.  There is one MacKenzie buried in a crypt dated 1465.  Before Columbus sailed for America! 

We came back to our B&B in Strethpeffer, or Steppenwolf, as I call it.  We’ll relax this evening, write the blogs and get ready for our new adventure tomorrow. 

We miss you!  Take care, bc and gc.

Strethpeffer

October 15, 2012

We left the wonderful Spoons B&B and headed back through Portree, Sconser, Luib, Ard Dorch, Dunan, to Strollamus.  We headed toward the Skye Bridge going through Skulmas, Breakish, Ashaig, Broadford, and Kyleakin to the Kyle of Lochalsh.  We found a nice Scottish radio station to entertain us as we drove through the amazing scenery of the Isle of Skye.

It sounds odd, but the scenery of the Isle of Skye is almost magical or mystical.  The only other place I can think of that has a similar feeling is Santa Fe, New Mexico.  Now the scenery isn’t the same, but it is mystical.  

Once we crossed over the Skye Bridge the scenery became different.  It is beautiful, but more trees, hills, mountains, etc.  The fall colors are at their peak and are gorgeous. 

We drove through Balmacara, Reraig, Kirkton, Achertyre, and Stromeferry with a side trip to Achmore.  We saw a small sign that said “West Highland Dairy” so we thought what the heck?  We wandered through a single track road to the Dairy and found the gate closed.  But the sign said “open” so I got out and opened the gate for bc to drive through.  We were met by a very friendly dog, “Ruckum” (at least that’s what we think the guy said).  This was a small farmhouse with lots of vegetable beds.  A man came out and pointed to another building and said “The cheese is in here.”  He went behind the counter and said ”What do you want?”  Not the least bit personable!  We bought some blue cheese and brie and 2 types of ice cream.  We threw the ball for Ruckum, who was so sweet.  The man had gone back into his house.  I opened the gate and we drove away.  Later we stopped at another beautiful road stop and ate the ice cream, Skye Fudge and Black Currant and Clotted Cream.  It was great.  Later we stopped at a tourist place and bought some crackers to go with our cheese.  At another beautiful road stop we each had 2 crackers with some cheese.  Lunch.  Mmmm.  It was good and perfect! 

When we pass through these little villages, this is what is usually looks like.

I think we may be near where the BBOY is.  Two suspicious things happened.  First, outside of Portree there was a big truck with huge blue plastic circle type things on its bed.  Maybe some sort of winding device for the BBOY?  Then later in the day we saw a truck labeled “Heavy Haulage”.  It was going the same direction as the other truck.  We will definitely keep you posted!

Back on the road driving alongside Loch Carron passing Rossend, Colemarty, Strathcarian, Beside Loch Cannon, Coulags, Balnaera, Achnasheen, Achanalt, Garve and Contin.  I win the gold star for the day because I spotted the sign for Glen Ord distillery.  We drove to it, crossing over a weak bridge twice!  Bc was so excited he could hardly stand it.  The lady gave him two scotch whiskeys to try and since we still have 10 days of travel he bought a bottle of Singleton.  Nice. 

Our B&B is in Strethpeffer outside of Inverness.  The B&B is called Linnmhor.  We are the only ones here.  The season has closed today so it will be interesting to see what type of tourist attractions will be open.  We had a wonderful dinner here.  In fact we were stuffed.  Michael MacKenzie entertains us with all sorts of stories and his wife Roonie does the cooking. 

Today we are off for another adventure filled day.  Take care, bc and gc 

Dunvegan

October 14, 2012

Sitting here on the Isle of Skye at The Spoons B&B.  It is a glorious day today.  Cool, but sunny. 

After a wonderful breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausage, bacon, crepes, homemade granola, pears sautéed in apple juice and cinnamon and tea, we set off to visit Dunvegan. 

We found the fairy bridge in Waternish.  Here is the first stanza of the poem about the bridge.

We came by the Fairy Bridge upon Waternish

And I set down in my journal

That we are entered into this enchanted world

Where land and sea and sky conspire

To steal your heart and take your breath away…

We were stopped by the sight of the 2 Churches Walk.  It was windy and cold, but this is where many MacLeods are laid to rest.  Inside the building are the graves of some of the MacLeod’s chieftains.

Then onto Dunvegan castle.  This castle is the ancestral home of the Chiefs of the Clan MacLeod for the last 800 years.  In fact, they live there today.  We walked through the castle and the beautiful gardens.  There is the walled garden, woodland garden, water garden and the round garden.  The castle boasts the original fairy flag, a horrible dungeon and an array of MacLeod artifacts and portraits. 

We are off for a special dinner at the 3 Chimney’s restaurant. 

Take care, bc and gc  

 

To the Isle of Skye

October 13, 2012

We had a lovely day of driving.  We left Oban with slightly cloudy skies with a little drizzle, but later it turned sunny.  We made our way along Loch Linnhe and Loch Lochy to Fort William via Connel, Benderloch, Barcaldine and Appin.  We saw Picot Castle Stalker down in the flats, Duror, Kentallen, Onich, and finally Fort William. 

We drove through the Highlands from Fort William to Corpach, Kinocheil, Glenfinnan, Lochailort, Airsag, and Morar to Malliag.  From Malliag we took the ferry to Armadale to the Isle of Skye.  The ferry was very nice, the scenery was beautiful.  Once off the ferry we drove through Kilbeg, Kilmore, Duisdale More, Ghlais, Harrapool, Broadford, Strollamus, Dunan, Ard Dorch, Luib, Sconser, and Sligacham to Portree.

The scenery on our drive today was breathtaking.  I know we’ve said the scenery is beautiful everywhere we’ve gone, (except Belfast) but the drive today was stunning.  Here are some pictures bc took.

You know how sometimes you’ll tell a little fib?  Just to make someone feel better.  Then it turns into something like a lie?  Remember when I told bc that the waterfall we saw in the Kerry National Forest in Ireland was the Torc Waterfall?  Well, now whenever he sees a waterfall he says “Is that the Torc Waterfall?”  I always say “yes”.  And yesterday we saw so many Torc waterfalls that I told bc that Torc means “moving” in Gaelic.  It just slipped out so easily the little lie.  Oh well.  He’s happy with all the waterfalls and they really are beautiful.     

Outside of Portree we found our way to the B&B “The Spoons.”  We are in the lap of luxury here.  We have the most amazing view from our room.   

We went to a local Inn for dinner.  The Edinbane Inn is a restyled farm house.  I had the best salad for dinner.  Warm spinach with chickpeas (garbanzo beans) and grilled halloumi.  Halloumi is a firm cheese.  The chickpeas weren’t all dry and boring; they were marinated in vinaigrette.  The whole thing was fabulous.  Bc had loin of lamb which was cooked to perfection.  We were celebrating Mike and Jenn's 5th wedding anniversary.  We waited and waited for them to show up for dinner.  But I guess they couldn't get a babysitter.  

After dinner we went into the little pub attached to the Inn and talked with the locals.  We met Mary Dougherty MacSwan and John Macraild.  Claire Marriott is the bartender.  Mary is quite the character.  We sure loved sitting and getting to know her.  She has 5 children all over the place.  Mary comes in to the bar every night to have a vodka and water.  When I asked her what kind of vodka she prefers she said “the cheapest.”  She rolled her own cigarette and we followed her outside to get a picture.  John drinks one orange soda per evening.  This is what is so wonderful about going on your own to new places.  Mary told us that she didn’t like the schools in Glasgow so she moved her kids up here to the Isle of Skye.  She wrote to tell her husband but the letter didn’t get to him.  So when he went home to Glasgow the neighbor told him, “Your family moved.  That’s not your house anymore.”  Love it!

Today we are out and about to visit the sites around here.  Tonight we will eat at the 3 Chimneys.  It should be fun. 

Take care, bc and gc